...because it proved you could build a great restaurant on downtown's bus mall, because Van Kley has come into his own as a chef and because Fortgang has raised our expectations for refined service without sacrificing cool.
It seemed to me in the review that the argument was basically that it's exciting enough not to be lame, but safe enough that folks from Beaverton will enjoy it. They made a weak argument as well about how it's revitalized downtown dining or some such, which I don't think there's much evidence for. And if that is the criteria, there are much better choices, like Clyde Common.
Not worth fretting over, though. It's not a bad choice, just not a good one either.