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Lovely's Fifty Fifty


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#1 Calabrese

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 03:22 PM

http://www.oregonliv...t_lovelier.html Melander

Lovely Fifty-Fifty (4039 N. Mississippi Ave.) will be a pizza-ice cream parlor, with a tiled wood-burning oven, candy-red enameled chairs and tables constructed of reclaimed wood.

James Albee will helm the project. He's a trained pastry chef with a penchant for seasonal homemade ice cream, such as fresh mint. He helped fill the gaps at Lovely Hula Hands since chef Troy MacLarty's departure in April. Sarah Minnick said she decided Albee was the perfect match after eating at Gialina Pizzeria in San Francisco, which Albee helped open.

Meanwhile, former Noble Rot chef Gregory Smith is taking over as head chef of Lovely Hula Hands (4057 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503-445-9910). A one-time hand at Washington's Cold Spring Farm, Smith possesses an ingrained grasp of seasonal cooking, a LHH hallmark.



#2 Angelhair

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Posted 14 January 2010 - 01:54 PM

4039 N Mississippi, ste. 101
Portland, OR, 97227
Phone:503.281-4060
Tues - Sun:5:00 pm - 10:00 pm

http://www.lovelysfiftyfifty.com/


LOVELY’s FIFTY-FIFTY
Menu January 12th, 2010

salads and such
sunchoke soup with mint pesto -6
mixed chicories with blue cheese and red wine vinaigrette -7
belgian endive with grapefruit, and picholine olives -8
beet salad with blood orange, avocado and cilantro -8
melted leek tart with arugula -7
ahi tuna carpaccio with preserved lemon, jalepeno and capers -10
roasted brussels sprouts with parmesan and lemon -7
pizza bianca with mixed marinated olives -5

pizza pies
margherita -12
four cheese -13
` spicy salami gentile -14
delicata squash, sage and bellwether ricotta -15
rapini & fennel sausage -15
add to any pizza: farm egg -2, calabrian chilies -2, arugula -4
sides for pizzas: whole calabrian chilies, sel gris, or parmesan -1 each

dinner
milk braised carlton farms pork shank with tarbais beans -14

dessert
almond caramel tart with cognac cream -6
polenta cake with lemon glaze -6
affogato -4

ice cream
citrus
salted caramel
mint stracciatella
chocolate

#3 ExtraMSG

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 06:42 PM

Anyone eaten here yet? How's the pizza?
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

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#4 uzideth

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 03:09 PM

Went last week. It's good. Pizza is rich. Crust is yeasty and almost veers towards pastry. Heavier hand on the toppings than Nostrana, or last time I was at Ken's but that was a while ago.

Salad - Chicories & Blue Cheese was about 10 or so really nice radicchio looking leaves, a few small clumps of blue cheese and a light dressing that supposedly had some buttermilk in it. Good quality, but not terribly impressive.

Tried Margherita and Rapini/Sausage. Both are good, ingredients are good but with the heavier layer of toppings, they get pretty greasy. Rapini/sausage had a great smoky flavor and the bitterness of the rapini cut the richness nicely. Crust is good and stands up to the toppings, though not quite cooked to char.

Pizza was too rich, didn't try ice cream.

Overall, the pizza's good, but I prefer the less rich crust of a place like Forno Feruzza or Nostrana. Salad had really good ingredients, but pretty basic. It should do well in the neighborhood, though prices on some items are a bit high ($4 sodas!).

#5 ExtraMSG

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 03:17 PM

Rich crust? So almost like a foccacia flavor with its inclusion of oil in the dough, where instead of especially stretchy like rustic bread it's almost crumbly and tender?

Thanks for the report.
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

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#6 uzideth

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 03:50 PM

Exactly, foccacia was the word I was digging for.

#7 ExtraMSG

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 03:29 AM

Posted Image

Did a little driving around and exploring while my wife hosted a baby shower. Got hungry and saw that there was no line at Lovely's Fifty Fifty, so found some parking and went in.

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I was surprised there was no counter seating. I felt bad taking their last table, a four-top, just for me as a line built up. Here's the current menu:

salads and such
marinated olives -3
roasted pumpkin and pear soup with brown butter and sage -6
half dozen kumamoto oysters on the half shell with mignonette -14
dancing roots radicchio with buttermilk blue cheese -7
millennium farms garden lettuces with pears and fromage blanc -8
belgian endive with creamy lemon dressing, grapefruit and picholine olives -8
beet salad with blood orange, avocado, cilantro and calabrian chilies -8
ayers creek polenta with parmesan and farm egg -7
roasted broccoli with chili flakes and breadcrumbs -5
roasted brussels sprouts with parmesan and lemon -5

pizza pies
margherita -12
four cheese -13
delicata squash, sage and bellwether ricotta -13
black trumpet mushroom with fontina and gremolata -16
bacon, new potato, rosemary and taleggio cheese -15
rapini & fennel sausage -15

add to a pizza: arugula -3 farm egg -2

pizza for kids: cheese -6 pepperoni -7
sides for pizzas: calabrian chilies, sel gris, or parmesan -1 each

homemade organic ice cream -3.50 cone or cup -2.50 kid cone
toasted almond-praline
salted caramel
mint stracciatella
chocolate
bourbon vanilla

root beer float -5
affogato -5
pint of ice cream to go -6.5


I ordered the beet salad, margherita pizza, and a cup of ice cream split between the toasted almond ice cream and the mint (they were out of the salted caramel).

Posted Image

Beet salad was tasty. Those white things are beets as well as the more typical red beets you can see in the pic. Both were cooked perfectly, fork tender, but not mushy. The dressing did a nice job of bringing out the natural sweetness of the beets, too. The only problem was that it was a bit sloppily put together. As Batali says, there's a difference between rustic and sloppy. If everything had been chopped to a more even size it not only would have looked better, but it would have encouraged more balanced bites. The calabrian peppers should have been minced to more evenly distribute their heat, too.

Posted Image

The pizza took a long time to arrive. Over 30 minutes after I was done with the beets. A table that should have gotten their pizza before me, too, had theirs come after. They were checking their watch around my 15 minute mark. I saw another table get up to see what was taking so long. They need to speed that process up.

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See that sheen on the crust?

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Look at the hole structure of the crust. This was the piece with the most open crumb. Uzideth was right. The crust is almost like foccacia, very much in the mold of modern American pizzerias, but perhaps a little slimmer. I'd guess there's both sugar and oil in the dough from the flavor and texture. It's a little sweet, without any tanginess and no crispness. It's both soft and chewy. It doesn't have that bread/wheat flavor that I look forward to from a hot oven pizza. (It could use some salt, too.) From the hole structure, the thickness, the style of dough, and the minimal amount of char on the bottom, I estimated the oven to be closer to 600 than 800.

The rest of the pizza was pretty good. It's a simple sauce, slightly sweet crushed tomatoes with perhaps some chile heat. I think they lay down a light layer of aged mozzarella or other easily meltable cheese and then add on the fresh mozz. They give a good smattering of basil chiffonade, giving the herbal licorice aroma to each bite.

The crust is the weakest part of their pizza, based on this one experience. As it is, I think the pizza is a step down from the better places, including Firehouse, Tastebud, and Al Forno. Change the crust, though, and they could be right there. I don't know, maybe some people prefer that sort of crust.

Posted Image

I liked the ice cream. Flavors were good, textures were smooth without iciness. The almond was too airy and light, but like I said, there wasn't any iciness.
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

Nick Zukin, Mi Mero Mole & Kenny & Zuke's

#8 Adam

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 03:25 PM

Wow, I ate here two days before you, Nick, and had a completely different Margherita. I don't think there was a speck of fresh mozzarella on it. Instead it was a thick layer of aged mozz and something akin to cheddar. Also, the crust on our pizzas was very different from the crust you described as having. The crusts on our pizzas were very crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside, with decent char on the bottom, and didn't resemble foccacia at all, in either taste or texture.

Here's a photo of the Margherita we had that night. Compare it with yours. Totally different cheese, no "sheen" on the crust, and your basil was shredded. It's like these were made by two completely different pizzaioli.

http://2.bp.blogspot...3qw/s320/Lovely

#9 Jill-O

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 03:28 PM

Welcome to the site, Adam!

And, wow, that's interesting about those two pizzas...I'd never guess they were from the same place.
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#10 Adam

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 03:34 PM

Hi, Jill-O, thanks for the welcome.

I am just stunned by how different these two pies are. Perhaps they ran out of mozz the night I visited? That still wouldn't explain the disparity between the two crusts, though. I'm going to have to visit again in a few weeks to see which "style" they're sticking with.

#11 ExtraMSG

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 04:34 PM

Weird. (And thanks for the link, Adam.) I went and read your post. It does indeed seem like very different pies. Could just be inconsistencies in the dough due to all the variables, maybe even the people who are preparing it. Maybe they're experimenting with the recipe or with flours. Who knows. The cheese differences are especially weird. I assumed the yellow/orange color in the cheese layer was from the tomatoes leeching. Mine wasn't overly greasy either. Very, very weird.
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

Nick Zukin, Mi Mero Mole & Kenny & Zuke's

#12 Adam

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Posted 24 January 2010 - 04:48 PM

Yeah, I thought the yellow color may have come from the tomatoes, except that the cheese tasted like melted cheddar. Next time I go back I'm just going to flat-out ask.

#13 uzideth

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 10:47 AM

Adam's Margherita looks a lot like the one we had.

#14 Angelhair

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 10:58 AM

Even the prep is inconsistent. One has a chiffonade of basil, the other a rough chop.

#15 MoreCheese

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 12:22 PM

Ate there on the 21st, and had a pizza that was similar to Adams...good char, no fior de latte at all..they must have changed the recipe. I didn't taste any cheddar. We also had the pizza with trumpet mushrooms and gremolata, and one of the comments was that it tasted like escargot...it was tasty. The brussels sprouts with Parm and lemon were fantastic. little 1/2's of grilled treats..the lemon was the perfect touch. The broc was also good, the chili's giving it a good touch of heat.
We enjoyed the pizza, but I wouldn't go out of my way for it.

#16 ExtraMSG

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Posted 25 January 2010 - 01:32 PM

@jessicaroberts on Twitter commented that she had a similar result as mine. Next time I'm up that way with my wife, I'll give it another try and see if it's changed or the same or what.
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

Nick Zukin, Mi Mero Mole & Kenny & Zuke's

#17 Adam

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 08:31 AM

Last night I got a message from Lovely's Fifty-Fifty chef Jimmy Albee, who informed me of this:

"We have started to make our own fresh mozz. I was really unhappy with the curd I was getting before. Think that's causing all the confusion with people. I feel that our new cheese is working out a lot better. It's not melting into this pool of tomato sauce and cheese..."

So there you have it. It sounds like the pizzas coming out of the oven should more resemble the one ExtraMSG had from now on.

#18 ExtraMSG

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 08:33 AM

Good to hear. Did you ask about the dough?
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

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#19 Adam

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 05:37 PM

Not yet, but I will inquire about "the sheen" when I return in the next couple weeks or so.

#20 ExtraMSG

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Posted 26 January 2010 - 08:53 PM

And the crispness vs soft/chewy.
The greatest service chemistry has rendered to alimentary science, is the discovery of osmazome, or rather the determination of what it was. ~Brillat-Savarin

Nick Zukin, Mi Mero Mole & Kenny & Zuke's